Monday, June 15, 2015

St.Anthony and the Fishes

Full disclosure, I've arrived in Lisbon during the St. Anthony holiday (June 12/June 13th and beyond), and my cousin brought me to a street party.  As usual,  I was happily thrown into the action of an all-night-long festa without any larger context or explanation.  It might've been the first time I had a Caipirinha.  I had no idea that the city was celebrating something; my vision of Lisbon to this day is that they have raving parties with amazing food all the time, IF you know where to look.

As an American, the sardines were the most shocking.  I was generally horrified to be handed something that had a face, and even my mother hates having to de-filet her own fish at the table.  But it it all worth it.  i.e. Learn to get over stuff like that if you want to be a good traveler, learn to smile right back at your food.  It helped me when I was in China too, eating at amazing restaurants!

According to Slate's article about the St. Anthony Festival, the current sardine shortage might be blamed on a saint.

St. Anthony was born in Lisbon, the child of local nobles. He went on to become a Franciscan friar, and legend says that after a particularly frustrating day of preaching to heretics, he went to a river and began preaching to the fish. The fish gathered around to hear him, raising their heads above the water until he finished. It is a fitting story for the city’s patron saint, who today presides over an all-night fĂȘte that takes place in a smoky haze produced by thousands of grilled sardines.

If you are into celebrations just for the food, that's okay.  It happens to all the best holidays.  During the month of June, Portugal consumes 13 sardines per second.  That's a miracle if ever I've heard of one.

Pacific Sardines seem to be more sustainable at the moment, and it seem that humans eating sardines are not as much of the problem as sardines being used as feed for larger fish, like tuna, in farms.

And if you want to try this in Manhattan, go to the Michelin-starred place on 17th Street, Aldea.
I imagine they will take out all the bones if you ask.  Unless they include it as part of the "experience".





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