Expo Cable Cars, Just Like Flying!

If you find yourself in the Expo '98, be sure to ride/fly on the cable cars!!

You are impossibly high and have a great view & orientation of the entire Expo area.   Get on near the aquarium and ride all the way over the various gardens (there is a display of each kind of zone) and also exhibit buildings.

And when you are done, you can go to the Vasco de Gama Mall, and get back by taking a bus, train or metro at the huge transportation hub across the street.

*Not sure if the aquarium is fabulous or not, although it looks incredible from the outside. I only had time to visit the gift shop. :(

Look for the submerged icon of the Expo, right outside.

Divertida-Mente

I just saw the film "Inside Out" in Faro. In Portuguese. The biggest news is that I cried. 

No, wait, that's not news at all.

The news is that I understood it enough to cry.  There were a few words here and there, but for the most part I got it, and even a bunch of the jokes too!

For someone who still has trouble following a grown up conversation in Portuguese, I was happy to recognize at least one measure of success.

Tavira, Algarve

Tavira is the Venice of the Algarve. 

(Except it is not sinking)

I found festa decorations and a public square performance piece about a shipwreck.

Gorgeous town by the side of the river.

Hotel Faro Cafe at Midnight

If it is a very hot night in Faro, and it is highly likely that it will be very hot in July, go to the highest spot you can find.

For me, I was lucky enough to know the granddaughter of the most famous chef of the Hotel Faro.  He's long since retired, but the spot is still incredible.

We came on a Sunday night and practically had the place to ourselves. 

We sat outside & enjoyed the breeze. And the view of the pier. And the Old Moorish town.

You don't have to stay at a luxury hotel to have a luxurious experience.

The service was good, friendly and speedy.  And when I asked for a gelao, (my favorite cafe word, a small latte) and a glass of ice, the waiter didn't blink. However, he brought me a double espresso (abatanado) instead, he brought steamed milk & cinnamon to the table. I never thought I'd be a coffee snob, but the cafe drinks are never more than 1.50 Euros.

Happiness indeed.

Life is all about being able to deal with mistakes. If it's too hot, find a cool spot, if your coffee order is wrong, they fix it with a smile. 

Farol/Lighthouse Island

Spent the day on a beach island. As if the regular Algarve wasn't party central enough.

The Moorish Influence on Faro

Walking through Faro today, getting lost by myself and wandering with family, I was amazed by what I had forgotten and what I remembered.

The immediate area around where I am staying is layered with family history.  Decades of generations of cousins living here.  And I am still trying to find the place where my father proposed to my mother!

Ketchup Americano and A Portuguesa

After a day of visiting Lisbon & taking the train to Faro, I arrived happily at my uncle's  house.

And was most surprised to find 2 kinds of ketchup on the table. (I was surprised to find it here at all!)

And then there was this:

Isto e mas piquante. 

This one is more spicy! ;)

Michaelense Museums and Factories

On my way to the mainland, I took a puddle jumper from Santa Maria to São Miguel early in the morning & left late at night.

That meant that most of the day was spent touring the island with my uncle, who knows lots of secret spots.

One of the best spots was the Museum of Immigration. Because guess what they have right outside? An impression of Dightin Rock!!

The exhibits are in both English & Portuguese. And had lots of familiar looking memorabilia.

And it's free!!

Walking Trails, Vila do Porto, Santa Maria-My Journey

I was looking at the trailhead just yesterday.  In my lazy way I thought, I'll get to it one of these days. 

I was planning a quiet morning, to save up some energy for a trip to my favorite place in the world, São Laurenco. I was just hanging out at my cousin's house, taking pictures of flowers.

Sometimes you get locked out.

Maybe that's a hint you should go for a hike.  Especially if it's a cloudy day.

From the Fort S. de Bras, look for the trailhead on the left side, leading to a ravine.

At the bottom, there is a bridge, so you don't have to wet your feet, like in the old days.  (Direct quote from my Mom!!)

I only walked as far as the gate at the top   of the next hill, which has a terrific view of  the ocean. The path then turns away, in the direction of the very modern windmills.

I plan to do the entire 80 km, probably just a little bit at a time.

San Juaninhos em Santa Maria!

I'm Great annual festival, not as big & crazy as in Terceira. But not bad, either!

Peeking out of my cousin's house on En Cima de Roche, I saw everyone making preparations in his front yard/a public square.

After they had set up a million picnic tables, they began serving some food. Favas & figado (liver)

Then came the band & the group dances, taking over the street.

And then there was food.

And wine.

And more music.

These religious festivals actually encourage you to celebrate life. Not like the Anerican Roman Catholic tradition I am used to. These saints throw the best parties!!

At the end of the night, we were still standing!!

Mare de Agosto presents Escolinha da Mare!

The Mare do Augosto Festival sponsors several events during the year.  For the past 5 or 6 years, it has also encouraged children of the island of Santa Maria to learn music at the Escolinha da Mare. Piano, violin, percussion and band instruments are offered.  Every festival in Portugal has an excellent band. (See any previous or future post about any festival)

On June 28th, it held the event "Sar au Musical da Escolinha da Mare", brought children who are taking music lessons to the auditorium for a presentation.  Kids of all ages performed, both in a full class group and also solo on various instruments.

The afternoon was a blast!  Everything from traditional Portuguese songs to Yankee Doodle & something called "Blow The Man Down".

My favorite was Joana, playing Sonata K331, Primeiro Andamento by Bach.

Or the group singing the theme song of overseas love, "You're So Far Away From Me"!

Walking & Hiking Trails-Vila do Porto, Santa Maria

One of the best ways to see the islands is in an SUV.  Seriously, the hills are very intense and so is the sun.  If you have only a few hours or a few days, get your bearings by taking a guided tour by jeep around the island.  All the islands are bigger than you realize. (This is partly a joke and partly not.  If the trails are your only experience of the islands, you might come away with the idea that the land is rough and unforgiving.  It is, but it also has lots of glorious aspects as well!)

However, if you have the strength and true fortitude to explore the trails, go for it! On Santa Maria alone, they have just finished up an 80km path which takes you in a circle around the island. Broken up into 4 sections of roughly 20km. Let people know where you are going, some of the areas are rarely traveled and have rough terrain, so bring a cellphone if possible or ask people to check in with you at various points on the routes.  And make sure to stop at the beaches for a cafe!! ;)

The trails are magnifIcent, but I haven't found any other online maps yet.  The signs contain valuable info, so take pictures of them before you leave.  The trails are very well marked, and even an inexperienced hiker can do well just by searching for the regular trail markers.

They are well marked and the map is key to understanding what villages you are walking to & from.

The trailhead at Vila do Porto is at En Cima do Roche (The Top of the Rock)

Santa Maria's Dalberto Pombo Science Center

Centro de Interpretacao de Ambiente

Which means the Nature Interpretive Center.

Which means it is awesome.

Make this one of your first stops.  The center gives an excellent context for the nature of the island around you. 

It is based off of the collection of Dalberto Pombo, a Portuguese naturalist who collected specimens of butterflies, insects, birds & fossils.  Beware when you tell Portuguese people you went to the Centro de  Pombo, it could also mean you were in the middle of a pigeon. (pombo= pigeon)

This is the oldest island, 10 million years, the last volcano was 4 million years ago. There is no bird called the Acore, even though that is what the islands are named for (the bird is either extinct or a legend), but look for the Milafre, which is about the size of a hawk. The only bird endemic to the islands. The others are just tourists/migratory.

Ask for an English paper guide to translate the info in the displays.  

Also make sure to ask the receptionist about the films they have available for viewing.  They have Portuguese/ English options (although the one in English was broken the day I was visiting). Watch whatever they have available, watching it in Portuguese is still fascinating.  Plus I had the auditorium all to myself.

This is an eel that always has it's mouth open. Or a sea monster.

Myself and a turtle. Tortaruga!!

All in all, the Centro got me excited to explore the island and look for fossils!  This is the island of details and grand views, make sure not to miss either!!

The Pier at Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel

I tried to attend #10fest, but it was completely sold out. A proxima vez, Anfiteatro!! ;)

After an exciting day of riding around the island, I'm sailing (boating?) to Santa Maria with Atlanticoline.  Apparently, this boat does not have an outside deck, so if you are prone to seasickness, look out!!

I had to check in with the office bc the email confirmation they sent me had a confirmation number, but no ticket attachment. There was a link within the email, but it sent me right back to a Home page for reservations.

Also, there has been a schedule change recently, make sure that your boat is leaving the time you signed up for!  

 So, word to the wise, double check & arrive ahead of time!

Besides, the pier is full of nice restaurants and cafés for you to enjoy!!

Museums of Ponta Delgada

MApparently, the main central museum is closed. ("Todas as portas 'ta fechada"). I remember a tremendous selection of Natural specimens, including skeletons of  preternatural fish & weird marine mammals. 

Across the street, there is the Art section of it and a few blocks away is the Sacred Art Museum.

The Art section contains many different rooms (a guide kept having to direct me to the next area) including a room of sculptures by a single artist, a larger collection of paintings, artifacts and natural specimens. The 2 headed calf was my favorite.

Museo de Arte Sacre did not allow any pictures, which is a crying shame, because it has a tremendous wooden altar which should be seen by everyone. It is filled with carved detail and in situ, cannot generally be examined or fully appreciated during a mass. 

No matter how you feel about religion, visit this museum (and any other churches). There is something incredible about wide open spaces; the architecture triggers something of wonder in the brain. 

Biblioteca e Arquivo Municipal de Vila Franca do Campo

I arrived in one piece yesterday morning, more on all that later.  (My amazing Tio picked me up at the airport, I slept, I tried to get over jet lag, i had a fresh fish at A Favorita, I slept some more, I had some sushi with my cousin and today I saw some whales & golfinos, more on that later too)

Tonight, I had the honor of attending the opening of a new library in Sao Miguel.  There was a marching band and a priest giving his blessing (the entire room recited Pai Nosso for good measure)

My uncle is a Person of Note, and was especially invited to witness the opening. The above before & after picture is especially indicative of the transformation.  History is made modern.

Social Anxiety About Not Being Able to Communicate

In my American life, I have a fair amount of social anxiety.  But I am also fairly good at trying to overcome it.  Go to a party and talk to people who are by themselves too.  Or hang out by the food. Conversation can be easy, once you open your mouth.  Being funny is optional, but possible.

In Portuguese, I'm stumped by the easiest questions.

"How are you?"
Proper response: "Tudo bem!  Tudo bem!!"
My response: . . . . . (big smile & nod)

And to be completely honest, I've been able to fall back on my built-in translator.  My Mom.

She is not coming with me this time.

Prior to this trip, my biggest achievement in getting around by myself is taking the ferry to Pico by myself.

I am writing this before I have left American soil. By the time you are reading this, I will have landed this morning and (hopefully) will have already survived  several interactions on the plane, the airport and Ponta Delgada.

Social anxiety plus not having language plus jetlag.  Sometimes it's hard to do what you are most afraid of.

Boa sorte!!