What is a Curisco?

When someone annoys you, or does something terribly annoying, what do you say?

"Listen, buster!"

"Hey! You think you can get away with that?"

In my crazy Portuguese family, you thump the offender on the arm and say, "Ai, curisco!"

I always grew up with this word.  It might be the first Portuguese word I ever heard or learned.  And when I say that my family uses this, they are most of the Portuguese people I know. My perception might be skewed.  (I've heard it's really bad, but I've only ever heard it playfully)

Literally, it means "lightning".  Nothing bad in that, right?  Except if you call someone that, "them's fightin' words" (to use the American Western vernacular)

It's not quite bad language, or in the category of a swear word.  Used mostly on Sao Miguel, every island (and immigrant) seems to recognize it.

I once had a teacher from Brown University try to explain it when we were all on a class field trip to a Portuguese restaurant.  He was dealing with the bill and asked the waitress for $40 in singles.

She turned to him immediately, punched his arm (somewhat playfully) and said "Ai! Curisco!!"

The Countdown Begins: I leave in 21 days for Sao Miguel!

My cousin visited from Santa Maria a month ago.  I realized that it was time for me to visit, again.  I have family all over the place & I try to go every 4 years.  I got my ticket on SATA, after much internal debate. But deep down, I knew I'd be going.

I'm excited to tell everyone that I'll be gone for the summer.  I say that I'm going to Portugal, then correct myself for them.

"Actually, it's the Azores," I say, "a bunch of islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean,"

Most people react well to "Portugal"; they generally have a sense of where it is ("Europe, right?" Yes, Europe) and what language they speak ("Spanish, right?" No, not Spanish.  You're close, though!)

I say, "most people" when I mean, "most Americans".  And even then, there is a giant difference between where I live now, New York and where I grew up, Waltham (outside Boston).  People in New York may not know about the Azores, have never had heard the word, but they won't admit it. We are all immigrants on the island of Manhattan.  Outside Boston, there is a chance that someone *knows* someone who is from there, or has visited, or both.  It works for New Bedford, Fall River and Providence.  And certain parts of California.  I've heard that there are so many Azorean immigrants to California that they have completely taken over the dairy industry.  If you get your milk from a West Coast cow, chances are pretty high that is speaks Portuguese.

That was a joke.

Most people have NO CLUE about the Azores.  And maybe it's better to keep it that way.  I feel slightly as if I'm betraying the selfish part of me, the future me who wants to keep it all a secret.  It's like I have inherited a Van Gogh painting, something breathtaking, and I keep it locked away in my basement. I want to keep the endless beaches and scenery all to myself.  But sharing is what makes anything worthwhile, right? I want to encourage people to come, but I don't want it spoiled, okay?

To all the future tourists who come to visit, especially because of any of my writings, be warned.  This is not just another vacation. These islands are pristine and unspoiled by uber-tourism.  These mountains and views are treasured & holy.  My family lives there, and has lived there for centuries.  Be respectful.

You are coming to my home.

Hot and Cold Running Water

RIBEIRA GRANDE, Sao Miguel

Hot & Cold Running Water

I stole this picture (and joke) from a Sata Airlines FB post!!  

The red water comes from the heated springs (which smell like sulphur), but are very healthy to swim in.  The cold water looks a little too blue, but that's how water looks in the Azores.  

Beautiful and clear.  

It's a running joke that pictures of the water look like they've been photoshopped.  I visited with a friend in 1988, and when she had her pictures developed at a drugstore (they used to do that!!)  they all questioned her!!  "Where IS that?? It doesn't look like a real place!!  The water is too blue!"

P.S. My Mom grew up using an outhouse, but in all of my travels, I've only ever used modern plumbing in the Azores.  (Sometimes it may be recommended to put used toilet paper in a wastebasket-in order to save the septic tank or plumbing) 

P.P.S. Waterfalls are always my preferred baths!!

Visit 59 National Parks in Two Weeks! (Not!)

I am still enraged by yesterday's discovery of a couple who had "done" the 9 islands of the Azores and dismissed one island as "can be done in a day by car".

Let me offer some advice:

If you were visiting the US for the first time, you would not try to cram in all 50 States, just because there are 50 states.  And for anyone who has done it: congrats.  You have a very specific (and weird) experience.

OR, if you were visiting America (especially for any limited period of "vacation" time) I am pretty sure that you would not want to cram in all 59 NATIONAL PARKS.  Because that would be ridiculous.

In the same way, I would beg you not to try to visit all 9 Azores Islands (or even more than 3) in less than a space of 2 weeks.

Logistics are difficult.

This is not The Amazing Race.

If you are a grownup, you should plan to be interested.  And puzzled.  And surprised. Hang around an interesting area and see an amazing view (even if you have to do it a few times, it does not get boring).

Here is another (American's) report about the Azores.  I'm not sure how long they stayed, but a few nights on a few islands which are grouped together (they did Pico, Faial, Sao Miguel) are recommended.

I got the above off this original posting on Fodor's, with a great series of comments too!