Top 5 Beaches on Santa Maria: #1 Sao Laurenco!

#1.  Sao Laurenco.

This is improving on perfection.  Everything that I said about Praia Formosa applies here, but the quality of everything is better.

There is a pool, for the kids or grownups.  Depends on the state of the tide.

There are rocks on one side of the beach, but they are climb-able in low tide and easy to navigate & identify in high tide.  And they make the beach look more beautiful.

The water is clear & delicious and you have the BEST view of the hills covered in grapevines.  Seriously, it is like swimming in an amphitheater-and you and the ocean are the stage!

The sun sets over the hill by 6 or 7, it is the first beach on the island to lose the light, so be warned to start your day of swimming early.  There is a cafe/bar/restaurant steps from the beach and another one just at the road.  There is another restaurant at the other end of the road, if you drive/walk to the furthest point.  That is where I had my birthday lunch, with an amazing view. And I had a dip off of the pier, straight off barnacled steps into deep water.

If you are lucky enough to stay the night, listen for the cagarros, the famous birds of the island. They are like seagulls, bbut only fly & sing at night.  They sound like they are laughing.  If you go for a walk, you might not believe it, because the birds are hard to see, you can even believe that it is the very stars that are laughing.

Top 5 Beaches in Santa Maria: #2 Praia Formosa

Okay, this beach is really just perfect.

(And yet, it is still #2)

About 15 minutes from the main town, it has gorgeous views on the approach (but most of the beaches here do).  There is an incredible cafe & restaurant steps from the beach, called O Paquote.  And if you really wanna stay away from the beach, there is another great restaurant option 2 blocks away.

The water is gorgeous.

It is clear.  The waves can vary from 10 footers that help you to fly-and only crash on the shore. Or giant surfer waves, which are also fun and slightly dangerous. I remember getting quite beaten up on this beach as a kid, but always going back for more.  But a few days ago, the water was calm enough for me and a friend (always bring a friend!) to swim out to the buoys!! VERY far & I got a little bit of a jellyfish sting on my arm & back, but I don't blame the beach for that.

Look for the lifeguards & the color of the flag.  I've been going for at least a month and the first time there was a strong riptide. There are some rocks, clearly marked, to avoid.  I've seen a few people with floatation devices, like tubes, and I've seen them float out a bit too far, but the lifeguards went after them to make sure they were okay.  Don't press your luck.

2 sets of showers, the best & the one with the lockable doors is right by the restaurant, just off the beach.  It CLOSES at 7pm, still in the midst of great sunlight.  The other set is further down, by the car ramp and is VERY open. i.e. No doors.

All in all, the best sunsets, the widest vista, the WHITE sand (on a semi-volcanic island, WHAAAT?)  It's the best "everyday" beach to visit.  Plus, it has a hotel and a campsite. If you want to spend some money to stay anywhere other than Vila do Porto, STAY on this beach!!!

But the beach is big enough to hold plenty of crowds, and this is the beach for Mare De Agosto, in late August which DOES hold lots of crowds.  Don't plan to come then unless you are ready for the fun, the crowds and the music!!

Top 5 Beaches on Santa Maria: #3 Anjos (and Rescuing Dolphins)

On Monday, there were 3 dolphins that got trapped around/in the pool at Anjos.  After a few successful (and unsuccessful) attempts, one was released back into the sea.  The other two died.

Below is the full text printed on Facebook, plus the automatic translation.  Follow the link for some incredible pictures by Foto Pepe. I think "infurtiferas" means "beached", and I can vouch for the fact that the "so-called pool" is indeed, more than a rumor.

Numa ação de extrema delicadeza e muito cuidado, o Parque de Ilha de Santa Maria em conjunto com algumas empresas marítimo turísticas, depois de diversas tentativas infurtiferas de fazer levar um Golfinho de regresso ao Mar, tendo o mesmo de forma sucessiva, dado á costa, junto á piscina Natural dos Anjos em Vila do Porto. Foi o animal, deixado repousar na dita piscina e posteriormente levado para algumas milhas fora da costa Norte da ilha de Santa Maria, a bordo de uma embarcação. Fotos ( Foto Pepe)

http://santamariaazores.net/…/golfinho-devolv…/notas-soltas/

In an action of extreme sensitivity and very careful, the park of island of Santa Maria together with some companies tourist maritime, after several attempts to take a dolphin infurtiferas to return to the sea, having the same way, because of successive will coast, Will natural pool with the angels in village of the port. It was the animal, left to rest in the so-called pool and then taken to a few miles outside of the north coast of the island of Santa Maria, the board of a boat. Photos (Photo Pepe)

Top 5 Beaches in Santa Maria: #4 Maia

Firstly, Maia is on the far side of the island.  Not exactly literally, but DO know that because of the roads it requires, the journey is long (and beautiful).

The beach itself is within a bay, much like Praia Formosa and Sao Laurenco.  The view is incredibly picture worthy upon approach.  Also remember that this was the location of the Maia Folk Festival in mid-July.  There are not 1 but 2 cafe/restaurant/bars within a few steps of the water!

Most of the coast here is made up of natural rocks (dangerous for swimming), but a lovely waterfall can be seen at the far end of the town. You could visit just for that!

Bad news: the only swimmable water is really a sea-filled pool which has a kid size version (up to 3 feet) and an adult version (up to 6 feet in depth). When there are more than 20 people, it begins to feel very crowded. And I'm not sure the pool drains completely (the walls are kinda slimy).

But it is well worth a visit, the pool & cafe are very decent and fun. And provide a nice change from the rest of the swimming experiences out on the open ocean.  My favorite is to see & feel the waves crashing against the protected sea wall of the pool.  Stand by the railing and feel the waves; nothing better than to feel like a part of nature!

Top 5 Beaches on Santa Maria: #5 Vila Do Porto

#5 Vila Do Porto

Not the Port itself.

Go to Fort St. Bras.  Look to the left, look down.  Can you see it?

Start on the hike.  When you see a road that goes downhill, backtracking to the sea, follow it.  There you will find a tiny beach with very large rocks. Not the best, but close to the biggest city.  Perfect for a quick dip, if you dare to brave the large rocks on the beach!

Note: No cafe.  It's too small.  But still within walking distance of the port & those cafes.

Pictures to come.

Almagreira Fest!!

Just as I thought Santa Maria was quieting down (until Mare de Agosto, anyway), I saw the lights in Almagreira!  The church was outlined in a red color, for the freguesia of Almagreira, which is known for the red outlines of houses. (Explained in a future post)

Friday & Saturday had the whole island coming out to celebrate. I had a lovely dinner of Albacore (note the ongoing discussion of whether it is "Tuna" or not).

The dinner itself was served in what in New York City, we would call a "pop-up" restaurant. Here, it is a bunch of picnic tables inside a food tent. I was surprised to find out that it wasn't sponsored or run by an established restaurant, because everything was delicious!

There were displays of typical folkloric dances, which involved young people in various traditional costumes. I even spotted someone wearing a capote! (Not in this picture, alas!)

There was even a dance around a Maypole!! (Aka Portuguese Pole Dancing)

On Saturday, they also were "playing with the Bulls", which I didn't stay very long to watch.  They put a rope on the Bulls and let them loose among men crazy enough to run in the field with them. I feel bad for the poor creatures. The people, I mean,

Mare de Agosto!!

In Santa Maria, they have just finished up the concert/festival of the "Tide of August". This is th 27th year and is turning out to be one of the "oldest" Portuguese music festivals.

http://portuguese-american-journal.com/santa-maria-27th-mare-de-agosto-musical-festival-azores/

Think of it as SM's answer to Burning Man.

See you there next year!!